Fujifilm XF10-24 mm F4 R Optical Image Stabiliser Lens

Product Information

Body Versus X-T2 vs. X-Pro2 X-T2 vs. X-T1 X-Pro2 vs. X-T1 X-Pro2 vs. X-Pro1 X-T10 vs. X-T1 vs. X-E2(S) X-T1 vs. X-E2 vs. X-Pro1 X100T vs. X100S vs. X100 X-E2 vs. X-E1 X30 vs. X20 Interchangeable Lens Body Spec Comparison Fixed Lens Body Spec Comparison It does have a moderate amount of s p h e r o c h r o m a t i s m if you go out of your way enough to get something out of focus: This is because the focus ring is a little narrower than on the original version by 3mm, smooth in action without being too loose, and has a ridged, rubberised grip band.

The focusing ring is about 1/2'' wide, made of polycarbonate with deep grooves that offer excellent tactile feel. The lens uses a fly-by-wire system in its lens focusing operation, so the focusing ring is not actually directly connected to the lens elements in a mechanical way. Rather, turning the focusing ring moves the elements electronically. In practice this means the focusing ring will turn forever in either direction, and you'll have to rely on the on-screen readouts to know if you have reached minimum or maximum focus. Above left: Fuji XF 16mm f1.4 at f16, above right: Fuji XF 10-24mm at 16mm f16. 100% crops from centre of JPEGs The optical design employs 14 elements in 10 groups, with four aspherical and four extra low dispersion elements. The focal ratio is a constant f4 throughout the range and the aperture system uses seven rounded blades. There’s optical stabilisation built-in, and the closest focusing distance of 24cm allows a maximum magnification of 0.16x. The barrel measures 78mm in diameter, 87mm in length, weighs 410g and offers a 72mm filter thread. As noted above, there’s no weather sealing on this model.The Fujifilm XF 10-24mm F4 R OIS WR remarkably exhibits virtually no barrel distortion, even at the widest 10mm setting. It also has a ridged, rubberised grip band that's slightly more rubberised than the hard plastic focusing ring. Move closer : our eyes have a focal length of around 43mm so when we use an ultra-wide angle lens distant objects seem further away and smaller in the frame so if you can move closer to fill the frame it will help.

Lens Versus Wide Angle Primes Standard Zooms Telephoto Zooms 10-24mm F4 vs. Primes 14mm F2.8 vs. 18mm F2 16mm Comparison 18mm F2 vs. 27mm F2.8 18-55mm F2.8-4 vs. 35mm F1.4 35mm F1.4 vs. 35mm F2 WR 56mm F1.2 vs. APD 56mm F1.2 vs. 60mm F2.4 Macro X100(S/T) vs. 23mm F1.4 X100(S/T) vs. 27mm F2.8 X100 Converters vs. 18mm & 35mm MCEX-11 vs. MCEX-16 Extension Tubes This lens is great for environmental portraits, though take care not to get too close to their face, they won’t thank you for the distortion! As I have already pointed out earlier, unlike its modern counterparts, the lens is not weather-sealed. This means you have to be extra careful when using the lens in extreme conditions, especially when it is very humid. When shooting in very rainy conditions in New Zealand, the front element of my lens fogged up a little. I put it away and let it dry up, and the moisture disappeared. So keep this in mind when shooting in the field – you might end up permanently damaging the lens. Sorry, I meant that the 16-55 would be heavier to carry with another lens compared to the 18-55. As a stand alone, it’s fine except there is no way that 16 mm is wide enough to do landscape photography. I would definitely want another wide angle lens. The 14 prime is too close to the 16 end of the 16-55 so that’s not a great combo. The 10-24 plus the 16-55 would be fine, but heavy combo.

Handling and Build

CA isn't too bad from what I've seen so far; definitely better than some of the other wide lenses I've used. The petal-shaped lens hood is quite large in size. It is plastic and attaches securely to the lens without any wobbling. Watch out for distortion from converging verticals, try and keep the camera level in both axis. Sometimes this is not possible so my workaround is to shoot slightly wider then correct the convergence in post processing.